Sewing and Patternmaking Terms: US vs UK English

Pants are trousers, a zipper is a zip and a serger is an overlocker: these are a few of the more than 80 sewing and patternmaking terms listed here with their US and UK English equivalents and a one-line definition, grouped by topic, so you can read a tech pack, an instruction sheet or a DXF file from either side of the Atlantic without guessing. Where US and UK English use the same word, the list says so.

Modeltex production guide. Updated on Oct 31, 2026.

Why US and UK sewing terms differ

English-language sewing and patternmaking vocabulary is not one single list. The US and the UK (and other English-speaking markets) often use different words for the same garment, tool or technique, and a few identical words mean different things. A workshop that makes clothing for brands in several countries, receives a tech pack from a buyer abroad or follows a supplier's instructions runs into both sets of terms all the time.

The same happens inside CAD programs: Optitex, Audaces, Gerber and Lectra have localized menus, but the names of points, layers and commands in a DXF/AAMA file are in English (notch, grainline, seam allowance), and the spelling follows the author's variety of English (center or centre, gray or grey, meter or metre). Knowing both versions keeps you from misreading a measurement or ordering the wrong item.

Body measurements

The measurements taken to draft or adjust a pattern mostly share their names across both varieties of English, and spelling is the main difference. They appear this way in any size chart or tech pack.

bust (same in US and UK): circumference around the fullest part of the chest, used in women's sizing
chest (same in US and UK): circumference around the fullest part of the chest, used in men's patternmaking
waist (same in US and UK): circumference at the natural waistline
hip (same in US and UK): circumference around the fullest part of the hips
shoulder width / across back (same in US and UK): distance across the back from one shoulder point to the other
sleeve length (same in US and UK): length from the shoulder point to the wrist
neck (same in US and UK): circumference around the base of the neck
inseam (US) / inside leg (UK): length from the crotch to the hem along the inner leg
rise (same in US and UK; also called crotch depth): vertical distance from the crotch seam up to the waist
thigh (same in US and UK): circumference around the fullest part of the upper leg
ease (same in US and UK): the extra room added to the body measurements so the garment can move
centimeter (US) / centimetre (UK): the unit most pattern measurement charts use; only the spelling differs

Garment names

Garment names are where the two varieties differ most, and mixing them up on a tech pack can get the wrong item made. Watch the words that mean something else on the other side of the Atlantic.

pants (US) / trousers (UK): garment covering each leg from the waist down; in UK English, "pants" means underwear
sweatpants (US) / tracksuit bottoms (UK): loose knit pants with an elastic or drawstring waist; joggers, the version with a cuffed leg, is used in both
sweater (US) / jumper (UK): knitted pullover top; in US English, "jumper" is a sleeveless dress worn over a top
tank top (US) / vest top (UK): sleeveless top with shoulder straps
vest (US) / waistcoat (UK): sleeveless fitted garment worn over a shirt; in UK English, "vest" is an undershirt
turtleneck (US) / polo neck (UK): top with a high collar that folds over at the neck
overalls (US) / dungarees (UK): pants with a bib front and shoulder straps; in UK English, "overalls" usually means protective workwear
romper (US) / playsuit (UK): one-piece garment with shorts
swimsuit (US) / swimming costume (UK): garment worn for swimming
pajamas (US) / pyjamas (UK): sleepwear set; only the spelling differs

Pieces, lines and points of the pattern

These are the terms you read directly on a pattern drawing or in the layers of a digital file, whether it is paper or DXF.

dart (same in US and UK): a stitched wedge-shaped fold that shapes the fabric to the body, typically at the bust and waist
dart point (same in US and UK): the tip of the dart, where the fold fades to nothing
seam allowance (same in US and UK): the extra fabric between the seam line and the cutting edge
seam line (same in US and UK; also called sewing line or stitching line): the line along which the pieces are stitched together
notch (US) / balance mark (UK; "notch" is also common): a small mark on the cutting edge showing where pieces match when sewn
grainline (same in US and UK; also written grain line): the arrow on a piece that shows how it lines up with the lengthwise threads of the fabric
bias (US) / cross (UK, as in "cut on the cross"; "bias" is used too): the 45-degree diagonal of the fabric, where it stretches the most
princess seam (same in US and UK): a long curved seam running from the shoulder or armhole over the bust, shaping the garment without darts
yoke (same in US and UK): a shaped panel at the shoulders or hips from which the rest of the garment hangs
facing (same in US and UK): a shaped piece sewn to an edge, such as a neckline or armhole, and turned inside to finish it
interfacing (same in US and UK): a layer sewn or fused inside a piece to add body, as in collars, cuffs and waistbands
gusset (same in US and UK): a small insert that adds room or reinforcement, as in the crotch or underarm
sloper (US) / block (UK; "block" is also used in US industry): a plain, fitted base pattern from which styles are developed
sleeve cap (US) / sleeve head (UK): the curved top of a set-in sleeve that fits into the armhole
armhole (US) / armscye (UK): the opening in the garment where the sleeve is set in
waistband (same in US and UK): the strip of fabric that finishes the waist of a skirt, pants or trousers
center front (US) / centre front (UK): the vertical line down the middle of the front of the body, where a front piece is often cut on the fold

Sewing, finishing and tools

From the pattern to the finished garment you meet another group of terms: the ones that describe how each piece is assembled and finished at the machine, plus the tools and supplies around it. This is where everyday US and UK usage differ the most.

hem (same in US and UK): the finished, folded-up edge at the bottom of a garment or sleeve
pleat (same in US and UK): a fold of fabric stitched or pressed in place to add controlled fullness
gather (same in US and UK): small even folds created by pulling up a line of long stitches
ruffle (US) / frill (UK): a strip of gathered fabric used as trim
topstitch (same in US and UK): a visible line of stitching on the right side, for strength or decoration
understitch (same in US and UK): stitching through the facing and the seam allowances close to the seam, so the facing stays turned inside
edgestitch (same in US and UK): a line of stitching very close to a folded edge or a seam
cuff (same in US and UK, for sleeves): the band that finishes the end of a sleeve
pants cuff (US) / turn-up (UK): the folded-up hem on a pant leg
placket (same in US and UK): a finished opening, such as on a shirt front or a sleeve, that holds buttons or other closures
bias tape (US) / bias binding (UK): a narrow strip of bias-cut fabric used to enclose raw edges
lining (same in US and UK): the inner layer of fabric that hides the seams and gives a clean finish inside the garment
baste (US) / tack (UK): to sew long temporary stitches that hold pieces together before the final stitching
zipper (US) / zip (UK): a closure made of two rows of interlocking teeth
snap (US) / press stud (UK): a two-part fastener that presses together
serger (US) / overlocker (UK): a machine that trims, sews and finishes a raw edge in a single pass
seam ripper (US) / unpicker (UK): a small tool for cutting stitches open
muslin (US) / toile (UK): a test garment sewn in inexpensive fabric to check fit before cutting the final fabric
dress form (US) / dress stand or dressmaker's dummy (UK): a body-shaped mannequin used to fit and drape garments
notions (US) / haberdashery (UK): small sewing supplies such as buttons, zippers and thread

Production, grading and marker making

In series production the vocabulary changes again: these are the terms used to talk about sizes, cutting and the organization of the work, not the piece itself.

pattern grading (same in US and UK): scaling a pattern from the base size to the other sizes using an increments table
size range (same in US and UK; also called size run): the full set of sizes a style is made in
marker (US) / lay plan (UK; "marker" is also common in the UK trade): the layout of all the pattern pieces on the width of the fabric, used for cutting
nesting (same in US and UK): fitting the pieces together inside a marker to waste as little fabric as possible
spreading (same in US and UK; UK also "laying up"): laying the fabric in plies on the cutting table
ply (same in US and UK): one layer of fabric in a lay
selvage (US) / selvedge (UK): the finished lengthwise edge of the fabric, which does not fray
yardage (US) / metreage (UK): the length of fabric a style or an order needs
sample (same in US and UK): a garment sewn to check the pattern, fit and construction before production
style (same in US and UK): a specific garment design, usually identified by a style number
cut order (same in US and UK; also called cutting order): the instruction that lists the styles, sizes and quantities to cut
tech pack (same in US and UK; also called spec sheet): the document with the measurements, fabric, trims and construction details of a style
patternmaker (US) / pattern cutter (UK): the person who drafts patterns
sewing machine operator (US) / machinist (UK): the person who sews garments at the machine
off-the-rack (US) / off-the-peg (UK): ready-made clothing sold in standard sizes
fall (US) / autumn (UK): the season before winter; fall-winter and autumn-winter are the same collection

Software and files: terms that are the same in US and UK

These do not change between the two varieties of English, but it is worth knowing their exact meaning so you do not confuse them with something else.

CAD (computer-aided design): software to draft, grade and make markers of patterns on screen
plotter (same in US and UK): a wide-format printer that prints patterns and markers at full size
digitizer / digitizing table (same in US and UK): a sensor board that records the outline of a paper pattern into CAD
DXF/AAMA (same in US and UK): the universal format for exchanging patterns between CAD programs
layer (same in US and UK): a labeled level in a digital file that holds one kind of information, such as the outline or the notches
patternmaking software (US) / pattern cutting software (UK): programs for drafting, grading and marking patterns

How to use this list when reading a tech pack in US or UK English

When you face a tech pack or an instruction sheet in English, the quickest approach is to look first for the words that repeat across several lines: they are almost always terms from this list, because a production sheet names the same pieces and measurements over and over (waist, dart, seam allowance, notch). Once you have identified those key words, the rest of the text can usually be understood from context, whichever variety of English it is written in.

Digital files work in a similar way: when you open a DXF/AAMA in Optitex or Audaces, the layer and point names in the file are usually in English even if the pattern was made in another country, because it is the standard used for exporting so that any CAD program in the world can read it. Modeltex digital patterns, for example, are delivered in DXF/AAMA compatible with Optitex, Audaces, Gerber and Lectra, plus PDF, PDS, ADS, MRK and PLT, so recognizing these terms helps you find your way around the file.

Frequently asked questions

Which sewing and patternmaking terms differ most between US and UK English?

The biggest differences are in garment names and everyday sewing words: pants (US) are trousers (UK), a zipper is a zip, a sweater is a jumper, a serger is an overlocker, a ruffle is a frill, to baste is to tack, a muslin is a toile, notions are haberdashery and a selvage is a selvedge. A few pattern terms differ too: sloper (US) is block (UK), sleeve cap is sleeve head and armhole is armscye. Core patternmaking words such as dart, seam allowance, grainline, hem and waist are the same in both.

What does dart mean in sewing?

A dart is a stitched, wedge-shaped fold that shapes flat fabric to the body, typical at the bust and waist of women's patterns. The point where it ends is called the dart point. The word is the same in US and UK English.

What is the seam allowance on a pattern?

Seam allowance is the extra fabric between the seam line and the cutting edge of a piece, the margin that lets you sew without the seam sitting right at the edge. The term is the same in US and UK English. In digital patterns it is included and marked, so you do not need to calculate it separately.

What is a marker, and what is it called in the UK?

A marker is the layout of all the pattern pieces on the width of the fabric, made to cut with the least waste; fitting the pieces together inside it is called nesting. "Marker" is the US term, and UK manufacturers often call it a lay plan, although "marker" is common there too. Spreading the fabric in plies on the table (laying up, in UK English) comes before cutting.

What does grainline mean on a pattern?

Grainline is the arrow marked on each pattern piece that shows how it must line up with the lengthwise threads of the fabric when you cut. If that line is not respected, the garment can twist or hang differently on one side than on the other. It is the same term in US and UK English, sometimes written as two words.

Why do CAD programs like Optitex or Gerber use the same English terms for layers and points?

Because the DXF/AAMA exchange format names its layers, points and commands in English, so that any CAD program in any country can read the same file. Even when a program's menus are localized, the names inside the file, such as notch, grainline and seam allowance, stay the same.

More guides

Sewing patterns ready for production, with the full size range, in the Modeltex catalog.