MODELTEX LAB — Free Patternmaking Course

Free patternmaking course, from the fundamentals to professional production: free lessons, sewing patterns to practice with and an AI that guides you throughout the course.

Also available: the patternmaking glossary and the Modeltex Lab AI.

The Modeltex sewing patterns to practice with are in Free Sewing Patterns.

Patternmaking FAQ

All of these questions are covered in the full patternmaking course at Modeltex Lab, where you can already access the published modules and the new lessons we add every week.

How do I start making clothing patterns from scratch, and what tools do I need?

Start by understanding that patternmaking builds a garment's flat pattern from real body measurements, and practice on a simple base. You need a measuring tape, a square, a ruler, paper and scissors. Made-to-Measure Patternmaking covers it from zero.

How do I print and assemble true-size PDF patterns on A4 sheets?

Always print at 100% or "actual size", never "fit to page", and measure the control square before going on. Then tape the sheets together following the numbered grid. See the printing help; to practice, download a free pattern or browse the A4 PDF patterns.

How do I take body measurements correctly and use a size chart?

Keep the tape flat against the body without pulling it tight, ideally with a helper: a 1-2 cm error shows in the fit. A size chart lists the measurements of each size and its increments. See how to take measurements and the industrial size chart in the lab.

How do I place patterns on fabric for cutting, and what is the grainline?

Arrange all the pieces across the fabric width with each pattern's arrow parallel to the grainline, the warp direction, which runs parallel to the selvage. That layout is a marker. The course shows how it is built and saves fabric and the glossary.

Do the patterns already include seam allowance, or how much should I add?

Modeltex patterns already include the seam allowance, plus notches and grainline marks, so you do not add it. On your own pattern you do, depending on each seam, and you confirm it with a sewn sample. See the basic skirt block.

How do I grade a pattern to get other sizes?

Start from an approved base pattern, usually a middle size, and move each point according to an increment table, by hand or in CAD. You do not enlarge the drawing as a block. In the course: how to grade sewing patterns and size grading.

What is the difference between patternmaking for woven fabric and for knit (stretch) fabric?

Woven fabric does not give, so the pattern carries ease and darts; a knit stretches, so it is cut closer than the body and usually has no darts. The fabric shapes the pattern. See which fabric to choose for each garment and the fabric guide.

Which software is used for digital patternmaking on a computer?

The industry uses Optitex, Audaces, Gerber AccuMark and Lectra. To start for free there is Seamly2D (the successor to Valentina), which drafts from measurements, and Inkscape, which digitizes a pattern already drawn. Compare options in the lab: free programs to start in digital.

How do I turn a base pattern into different designs and move darts?

Start from the tested base pattern and adapt it to the design: necklines, lengths, seams, or move darts to another seam without losing fit. In the course, a basic skirt block gives the straight, pencil and A-line skirt; more in the base patterns guide.

How do I fix fit problems at the pants rise or the sleeve cap?

Find the cause from the wrinkle's shape and correct one thing at a time, testing with a sewn sample. At the rise: depth, curve or split between pieces. At the sleeve cap: it must match the armhole. See why the pants rise wrinkles and the guide.

Practice and produce

Sewing patterns by category

Related guides